Mount Oku-Hotaka, Nagano

Duration Allow two days
Level Moderate to hard
The Hotaka massif looms over Kamikochi resort, a small alpine village in the heart of the mountains, and one of the main gateways to the Japanese Alps. From the Kappa bridge, the imposing rocky peaks are much photographed by day trippers – who don’t make it much further than the old-fashioned hotels dotted around the valley. Serious hikers will have their sights set a little higher.
The hike Cross Kappa bridge and follow the path to the right of the hotel until you reach the sign for Dakesawa. Two hours of walking through pleasant forest will bring you out at the Dakesawa hut, from where the real climb begins. It’s a steep two- to three-hour ascent to Mae-Hotaka, and then another 90 minutes of rocky scrambling to reach Oku-Hotaka, the third-highest mountain in Japan. Follow the paint marks for a short, sharp descent down ladders to the Hotaka-dake hut. The next day, rise early for a short climb up to Mount Karasawa, then go back to the hut, and follow the path down into the col to Karasawa hut and tent city. The Hotaka ridgeline rises menacingly above, but follow the meandering path to the Yokoo-sansou hut, from where it’s a long but gentle hike back to Kamikochi.
Getting there There are buses from Takayama and Matsumoto stations, and direct night buses from Tokyo and Osaka-Kyoto.